What's in the Tin?

Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Using 0000 fine steel wool (Except when applying to a varnished finish) or a soft cotton or cotton mesh cloth, applying sparingly in the direction of the grain. Buff prior to second coat, using another clean lint‐free cloth or a cotton multi‐use mesh cloth. Mesh cloths are good for removing excess wax and disbursing heat during buffing the surface. 1 or 2 coats will generally suffice.

Summary of Application & Use (if you've used wax polish before, you may only need to refer to this Summary section) Ensure the surface is clean, dry, and free of dust and oil. Test on a scrap piece of material or in an inconspicuous area first. Apply with 0000 fine steel wool (1st choice) or a clean cotton cloth. Have a cup of something you like while you wait 20‐30 mins for the wax to become touch dry. Buff with a clean cotton polishing cloth until you feel no resistance from the waxed surface. Admire your finish! Keep the lid on the tin when not in use, and store in a cool place. OPTIONAL READING Application in Detail Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Test on a scrap piece or a less visible area first. For Restoring or finishing a piece without a polyurethane or pre‐existing high sheen varnish. ‘Charge’ your fine (0000) steel wool, applying sparingly in the direction of the grain. If working with rounds, corners or cervices, work the wax in to the grain well using the steel wool, and where possible finish in the direction of the grain. Refreshing a finished piece (Varnished or similar) Where the surface is varnished or similar, and for the avoidance of micro‐keying (scratches) into the surface, use a soft cotton cloth in place of steel wool. Apply the wax in a small circular motion covering the entire area. Working with the grain is of less importance, as you’re polishing the coat on top, not the grain below.

Summary of Application & Use (if you've used wax polish before, you may only need to refer to this Summary section) Ensure the surface is clean, dry, and free of dust and oil. Test on a scrap piece of material or in an inconspicuous area first. Apply with 0000 fine steel wool (1st choice) or a clean cotton cloth. Have a cup of something you like while you wait 20‐30 mins for the wax to become touch dry. Buff with a clean cotton polishing cloth until you feel no resistance from the waxed surface. Admire your finish! Keep the lid on the tin when not in use, and store in a cool place. OPTIONAL READING Application in Detail Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Test on a scrap piece or a less visible area first. For Restoring or finishing a piece without a polyurethane or pre‐existing high sheen varnish. ‘Charge’ your fine (0000) steel wool, applying sparingly in the direction of the grain. If working with rounds, corners or cervices, work the wax in to the grain well using the steel wool, and where possible finish in the direction of the grain. Refreshing a finished piece (Varnished or similar) Where the surface is varnished or similar, and for the avoidance of micro‐keying (scratches) into the surface, use a soft cotton cloth in place of steel wool. Apply the wax in a small circular motion covering the entire area. Working with the grain is of less importance, as you’re polishing the coat on top, not the grain below.

Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Test on a scrap piece or a less visible area first. As a Finishing Polish on Established Furniture Apply sparingly, with a soft lint-free cloth in a small circular motion. Light buff after 20-30 minutes (or when polish appears dull) with another clean lint-free cloth. Avoid a wax build up on your cloth by frequently turning the cloth to new/clean areas. Avoid scrunching of your buffing cloth. Where resistance to buffing increases, consider buffing in stages, ensuring the polish is sufficiently dried as you ‘buff’. *Previously varnished or sealed surfaces may require 24 hours full drying time before a final buff. This Carnauba wax will not harm the varnished or sealed surfaces. For New or Restored work Charge (or load) fine grade (0000) steel wool to work an initial coat, sparingly into and with the grain. Allow 15-20 mins to dry Buff until you feel zero resistance in the cloth. Keep turning the cloth (to clean areas) during buffing. This also reduced friction through heat. IF applying 2nd or subsequent coats, use a clean lint-free cloth or non-abrasive pad as desired, allowing each coat to dry between buffing. A Final firm buff (buff till you puff) 8 hours after light buffing, or until there is zero resistance in the buffing cloth and the desired sheen is accomplished. If you can leave finger prints on the finished surface – it’s not yet cured.

Or refer to our Article using the link above... Summary of Application & Use Tung Oil is a user friendly and easily applied product. Apply a coat of oil with a pad, brush or your fingers. Allow the oil to absorb for approximately 60 minutes or until dry patches appear. Wipe over the entire surface, removing any excess, then allow to dry. Diluted first and second coats can be re coated within a few hours, else allow 24hrs dry time between coats. When you’ve achieved your desired level of finish (possibly 3-5 coats) stand back and admire your work! OPTIONAL READING Application in more detail Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Test on a scrap piece or a less visible area first. Depending upon the surface being treated, often best applied in thin coats. A diluted 1st and 2nd coat can be applied, for example, at a ratio of 1:1 with a solvent. Gum Turpentine, Citrus Terpene and D‐Limonene rank high among the solvents suggested. Water is not an appropriate solvent in this instance, and it will not mix with Tung Oil. Tung Oil together with lower grit surface preparations can be thinned to the desired viscosity to increase absorption (new work) and dry time. But at some stage during coating, a 240+ grit would lend itself to a smoother ultimate finish. ‘Often’ but not always – There are mixed opinions about diluting Tung Oil with some solvents when applying the oil to kitchen utensils or children’s toys. Some believe that once the solvent has dried (evaporates) then it is no longer present occurs, then then it is never food safe. This remains your personal choice as it is also better absorption. (Confused yet? …. If you are unsure, test on a scrap piece, or inconspicuous area first.) Apply Tung Oil with brush or clean lint‐free cloth. A pad, or even your hand would not absorb as much as some cotton cloths will. To apply a little more pressure, a white non‐abrasive pad will help you to massage the oil into the surface. For general (quicker) interior/exterior finishes Apply 1st coat liberally, wipe off any excess or pooling that is not absorbed within 1‐2 hours. Leave until touch dry before applying a second coat. Coats may vary from 2, to many for some furniture finishes, increasing viscosity (Less solvent) as coats are applied to the desired finish. It is not necessary to sand between coats, unless you started with just 120 grit and are ultimately seeking a smoother finish. For fine work: (methods are non‐exhaustive) Apply thin, meaning to wipe on very thin, and not necessarily thinned ‘with thinner or solvent’ ‐ using many sparingly applied coats until you achieve your desired result. Your best chance at achieving any natural satin sheen will be achieved using this method. Wipe on using a pre‐charged (with Tung oi) cloth or very slightly damp, lint free cloth or non‐abrasive pad. Optional Finish (1) Finish with 1,000 grit light buff 72+ hours after final coat for a really smooth surface. Optional (2) Introduction to Burnishing Burnishing Tung oil should be applied in thin layers, and where surface sanding preparation of 600grit or more was used, then the application can be as simple as a ‘wipe-on, wipe straight off’ process. Some like to light sand between coats just to de-nib, another option is to 'wet sand' the finishing coat - wet sanding is done with fine grit paper whilst the oil is still wet. This burnishing technique may accelerate the dry time of Tung Oil, by way of heat friction and thinning. Burnishing can also result in a higher sheen to Tung Oil, without any additives. Burnishing the finish - steps One method to achieve a burnished finish (non-exhaustive) Apply your final coat of Tung Oil, thinned to 50/50 with solvent Allow the oil to penetrate/rest for 15-30 mins The Oil should still display a wet shine Start 'wet sanding' with 400grit - only 6 or so passes (1 pass = back & forth) are required, sanding with the grain of course. This action will cause the sanding dust and oil to form something of a slurry. It also kicks off the polymerising process. Move up the grits 400 to 600, 800,1000, 1,200 and up to 2,000 or more if you're on a roll! The slurry will slowly be removed, leaving if anything, only the finest of paste and an exceptionally smooth finish. Finally, wipe the surface (be firm) with a clean lint cotton cloth, turning the cloth to clean areas as required. You are effectively 'buffing' the surface clean. Step back - you're finished. When completely cured, your finish will be as resistant to heat and hot or cold fluids as any natural oil can be. Waxing remains an option, but is by no means required.

Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Test on a scrap piece or a less visible area first. As a Finishing Polish on Established Furniture Apply sparingly, with a soft lint-free cloth in a small circular motion. Light buff after 20-30 minutes (or when polish appears dull) with another clean lint-free cloth. Avoid a wax build up on your cloth by frequently turning the cloth to new/clean areas. Avoid scrunching of your buffing cloth. Where resistance to buffing increases, consider buffing in stages, ensuring the polish is sufficiently dried as you ‘buff’. *Previously varnished or sealed surfaces may require 24 hours full drying time before a final buff. This Carnauba wax will not harm the varnished or sealed surfaces. For New or Restored work Charge (or load) fine grade (0000) steel wool to work an initial coat, sparingly into and with the grain. Allow 15-20 mins to dry Buff until you feel zero resistance in the cloth. Keep turning the cloth (to clean areas) during buffing. This also reduced friction through heat. IF applying 2nd or subsequent coats, use a clean lint-free cloth or non-abrasive pad as desired, allowing each coat to dry between buffing. A Final firm buff (buff till you puff) 8 hours after light buffing, or until there is zero resistance in the buffing cloth and the desired sheen is accomplished. If you can leave finger prints on the finished surface – it’s not yet cured.

Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Carefully assess your work surface before you begin and ensure your applicator is suitable for the surface, you’re applying wax paste to. (e.g., not using an applicator that itself, would scratch or etch the surface undesirably) Using a cotton cloth or fine steel wool, load your applicator with a liberal amount of Metal Wax Paste. Work the paste across the surface, covering the entire area. Massaging the wax paste into the surface with fine steel wool may assist in removing tarnishing or some surface rust. For timber surfaces, apply the wax paste to the surface, working with the grain where possible. When the wax paste is dry, BUFF the surface with a clean cotton cloth. Turning the buffing cloth regularly, you should produce a silk sheen finish. To ensure all residual wax paste is removed after drying time, your buffing cloth should glide without resistance, across any steel/metal surface.

Avoid the use of steel wool as it can leave dark stains on your kitchenware. For new Boards and Utensils: (New untreated wood) Apply 2-3 coats, starting with a more generous coat, buffing between coats. Use your fingers, a cloth or non-abrasive pad in a circular fashion to rub the butter into the surface. 1st Coat - Wipe off any excess after 15 minutes. (See drying times) Allow 1-2 hours before applying subsequent coats (touch dry), buffing between coats. For Maintenance (previously treated wood) Scoop a small amount of Board Butter onto a clean dry lint free cloth or non-abrasive pad, or directly onto the surface you’re treating, if it’s flat. Use your fingers, a cloth or non-abrasive pad in a circular fashion to rub the butter into the surface. Wipe off any excess after 15 minutes. (See drying times) A little goes a long way, and one or two generous coats are better than a flooding the surface in a single pass.

Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Test on a scrap piece or a less visible area first. For Restoring or finishing a piece without a polyurethane or pre‐existing high sheen varnish. ‘Charge’ your fine (0000) steel wool, applying sparingly in the direction of the grain. If working with rounds, corners or cervices, work the wax in to the grain well using the steel wool, and where possible finish in the direction of the grain. Refreshing a finished piece (Varnished or similar) Where the surface is varnished or similar, and for the avoidance of micro‐keying (scratches) into the surface, use a soft cotton cloth in place of steel wool. Apply the wax in a small circular motion covering the entire area. Working with the grain is of less importance, as you’re polishing the coat on top, not the grain below.

Summary of Application & Use Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Apply a Base coat sparingly, with fine (000 or 0000) steel wool, working the product into the grain. Buff after 20‐30 minutes with a cotton or cotton polishing cloth. IF applying a second coat of this product, wait at least 30 mins, but within 2 hours of the Base coat. Apply the second coat with a clean cotton cloth in the direction of the grain. Buff second coat after 30 minutes, turning the cloth frequently to maintain a clean, and cool surface. Application in detail Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Test on a scrap piece or a less visible area first. For Restoring or finishing a piece without a polyurethane or pre‐existing high sheen varnish. ‘Charge’ your fine (0000) steel wool, applying sparingly in the direction of the grain. If working with rounds, corners or cervices, work the wax in to the grain well using the steel wool, and where possible finish in the direction of the grain. Refreshing a finished piece (Varnished or similar) Where the surface is varnished or similar, and for the avoidance of micro‐keying (scratches) into the surface, use a soft cotton cloth in place of steel wool. Apply the wax in a small circular motion covering the entire area. Working with the grain is of less importance, as you’re polishing the coat on top, not the grain below.

Ensure painted surfaces are dry before applying wax. Contains Gum Turpentine which can reduce painted surface if paint is not cured. (Dried properly) Apply liberally with a brush for typical cover, or a cloth for a very subtle effect. It is not necessary to prime the work with an oil, wax, or turpentine first, but these are options. Test your plan by applying to a discrete area or test piece first. Brush in a circular or criss-cross action to fill the grain. Cover the desired area and wipe of any excess. (Unless you’re building the wax and dark effect into cervices) Remember, you have working time in which to move the wax around the surface. Recoat as required to achieve bulk, depth, colour or desired ageing. Buff as required when dry, or lesser so if a lower sheen is desired. Effect wax can be further enhanced with a Beeswax or Carnauba wax finishing coat to add extra protection and shine.

Ensure painted surfaces are dry before applying wax. Contains Gum Turpentine which can reduce painted surface if paint is not cured. (Dried properly) Apply liberally with a brush for typical cover, or a cloth for a very subtle effect. It is not necessary to prime the work with an oil, wax, or turpentine first, but these are options. Test your plan by applying to a discrete area or test piece first. Brush in a circular or criss-cross action to fill the grain. Cover the desired area and wipe of any excess. (Unless you’re building the wax and dark effect into cervices) Remember, you have working time in which to move the wax around the surface. Recoat as required to achieve bulk, depth, colour or desired ageing. Buff as required when dry, or lesser so if a lower sheen is desired. Effect wax can be further enhanced with a Beeswax or Carnauba wax finishing coat to add extra protection and shine.

Avoid the use of steel wool as it can leave dark stains on your kitchenware. Shake it to make it! Shake the bottle a few times before each use, to break the wax surface seal and mix the contents. For new Boards and Utensils: (New untreated wood) Apply 2-4 generous coats. Watch your work piece - If it’s absorbing the oil like it hasn’t had a drink in 100 years, then keep feeding it. Wipe off excess between coats, and buff after final coat. Final coat should be determined as ‘when the surface still feels wet over the majority of the area, 8 hours after coating’ Use your cloth or non-abrasive pad in a circular fashion to rub the oil into the surface. (See drying times) For Maintenance: (previously treated wood surfaces) Consider a light sand where excessive cutting marks, wear, raised or furring grain, or surface stain may be apparent. (The smoother the better in most cases) Pour a generous amount of Barrier Oil onto a clean dry lint free cloth or non-abrasive pad, or directly onto the surface you’re treating, if it’s flat. Use your cloth or non-abrasive pad in a circular fashion to rub the oil into the surface. Wipe off any pooling or excess after 15 minutes. (See Drying Time) A little goes a long way, and one or two generous coats are better than a flooding the surface in a single pass.