What's in the Tin?
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Restorers Traditional Beeswax
Profile
Beeswax and the combination of beeswax and gum turpentine have been used for centuries, to provide a protective moisture barrier, act as a preserver, and to bring out the timbers warm natural glow. Easily applied, with incredible & consistent results! To this age‐old traditional formulation, we’ve added little more than a tin. This product is 100% natural, biodegradable, and is an environmentally friendly option.
Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Using 0000 fine steel wool (Except when applying to a varnished finish) or a soft cotton or cotton mesh cloth, applying sparingly in the direction of the grain. Buff prior to second coat, using another clean lint‐free cloth or a cotton multi‐use mesh cloth. Mesh cloths are good for removing excess wax and disbursing heat during buffing the surface. 1 or 2 coats will generally suffice.
10-15 minutes 1st coat. Everyday use, 1 hour after final coat is buffed.
Characteristics
Traditional, mid-sheen, durable, protective
Fit for
New Timber, restored furniture, or unsealed surfaces
Maintenance of finished timber and furniture
Interior flooring
Optional use
Leather
Typical Uses
Suitable for all timbers, furniture, flooring, leather, and children’s toys. Often the choice of restorers and polishers of antiques.
Apply over new work, oiled, waxed, or previously treated (varnish/polyurethane) surfaces.
Does not contain Linseed oil.
Essential Ingredients
Australian Beeswax and natural (gum) Turpentine.
Sheen Level (1-5) Durability Level (1-5)
3 3
Restorers Premium Clear Furniture Wax
Information and tips on use
Based on the traditional foundation of Beeswax and gum turpentine, we've infused our furniture polishes with Carnauba and Microcrystalline wax to provide a higher sheen and more resilient protective finish. In doing so, restoring the timbers warm natural glow. The Gum Turpentine combined with our new Red Cedar based essence, delivers a rich aromatic woody fragrance. This premium wax will enhance the piece, protect the surface against minor scratches and repel water spills. Wax alone is not a sealer against all potential stains or damage, but it is a long‐time, long lasting, first line of defence that is easily maintained & repairable.
Summary of Application & Use (if you've used wax polish before, you may only need to refer to this Summary section) Ensure the surface is clean, dry, and free of dust and oil. Test on a scrap piece of material or in an inconspicuous area first. Apply with 0000 fine steel wool (1st choice) or a clean cotton cloth. Have a cup of something you like while you wait 20‐30 mins for the wax to become touch dry. Buff with a clean cotton polishing cloth until you feel no resistance from the waxed surface. Admire your finish! Keep the lid on the tin when not in use, and store in a cool place. OPTIONAL READING Application in Detail Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Test on a scrap piece or a less visible area first. For Restoring or finishing a piece without a polyurethane or pre‐existing high sheen varnish. ‘Charge’ your fine (0000) steel wool, applying sparingly in the direction of the grain. If working with rounds, corners or cervices, work the wax in to the grain well using the steel wool, and where possible finish in the direction of the grain. Refreshing a finished piece (Varnished or similar) Where the surface is varnished or similar, and for the avoidance of micro‐keying (scratches) into the surface, use a soft cotton cloth in place of steel wool. Apply the wax in a small circular motion covering the entire area. Working with the grain is of less importance, as you’re polishing the coat on top, not the grain below.
Drying Time & Buffing Wait 20‐30 minutes after application, then buff. (Based upon temperatures between 15 and 25 Celsius) Do not attempt to dry in direct sunlight. Warm airflow is OK. Wait 12‐24 hours to re‐coat, or to use the finished piece in ‘higher traffic’ areas.
Characteristics
More durable than Traditional Beeswax, with a higher sheen
Fit for
New Timber, restored furniture, or unsealed surfaces
Maintenance of finished timber and furniture
Optional use
Turnings, carvings, and ornamental
Interior flooring
Leather
Typical Uses
Suitable for all timbers, furniture, and flooring. Often the choice of restorers and polishers of antiques.
Apply over bare/new work, oiled, waxed, shellacked, varnished, or most previously treated timber surfaces.
Does not contain Linseed oil.
Essential Ingredients
Australian Beeswax, Carnauba Wax, Refined Petroleum waxes & solvent, and natural (gum) Turpentine.
Sheen Level (1-5) Durability Level (1-5)
3.5 4
Restorers Premium Antique Furniture Wax
Information and tips on use
Based on the traditional foundation of Beeswax and gum turpentine, we've infused our furniture polishes with Carnauba and Microcrystalline wax to provide a higher sheen and more resilient protective finish. In doing so, restoring the timbers warm natural glow. The Gum Turpentine combined with our new Red Cedar based essence, delivers a rich aromatic woody fragrance. Where applied as a base wax directly to new work, the grain will take‐up the tanned colouring more‐so than when applied to previously finished furniture or pieces. This premium wax will enhance the piece, protect the surface against minor scratches and repel water spills. Wax alone is not a sealer against all potential stains or damage, but it is a long‐time, long lasting, first line of defence that is easily maintained & repairable.
Summary of Application & Use (if you've used wax polish before, you may only need to refer to this Summary section) Ensure the surface is clean, dry, and free of dust and oil. Test on a scrap piece of material or in an inconspicuous area first. Apply with 0000 fine steel wool (1st choice) or a clean cotton cloth. Have a cup of something you like while you wait 20‐30 mins for the wax to become touch dry. Buff with a clean cotton polishing cloth until you feel no resistance from the waxed surface. Admire your finish! Keep the lid on the tin when not in use, and store in a cool place. OPTIONAL READING Application in Detail Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Test on a scrap piece or a less visible area first. For Restoring or finishing a piece without a polyurethane or pre‐existing high sheen varnish. ‘Charge’ your fine (0000) steel wool, applying sparingly in the direction of the grain. If working with rounds, corners or cervices, work the wax in to the grain well using the steel wool, and where possible finish in the direction of the grain. Refreshing a finished piece (Varnished or similar) Where the surface is varnished or similar, and for the avoidance of micro‐keying (scratches) into the surface, use a soft cotton cloth in place of steel wool. Apply the wax in a small circular motion covering the entire area. Working with the grain is of less importance, as you’re polishing the coat on top, not the grain below.
Drying Time & Buffing Wait 20‐30 minutes after application, then buff. (Based upon temperatures between 15 and 25 Celsius) Do not attempt to dry in direct sunlight. Warm airflow is OK. Wait 12‐24 hours to re‐coat, or to use the finished piece in ‘higher traffic’ areas.
Characteristics
More durable than Traditional Beeswax, with higher sheen. Fills scratches in darker or stained timbers
Fit for
New Timber, restored furniture, or unsealed surfaces
Maintenance of finished timber and furniture
Optional use
Turnings, carvings, and ornamental
Interior flooring
Leather
Typical Uses
Suitable for all timbers, furniture, and flooring. Often the choice of restorers and polishers of antiques.
Apply over bare/new work, oiled, waxed, shellacked, varnished, or most previously treated timber surfaces.
Does not contain Linseed oil.
Essential Ingredients
Australian Beeswax, Carnauba Wax, Refined Petroleum waxes & solvent, and natural (gum) Turpentine.
Sheen Level (1-5) Durability Level (1-5)
3.5 4
Restorers Carnauba Wax
Information and tips on use
Like all our finishes, Carnauba Wax Polish imparts an alluring fragrance, including pine & cedarwoods, with a squeeze of fresh oranges. An incredibly tactile high sheen polish for the wood turner, furniture finisher, and tradesperson. Our Carnauba finish is easy and quick to apply, taking only minutes to buff to a durable and water repelling finish. A single coat will revive surfaces. Or apply a couple of coats to new work for a sleek high-lustre transparent finish, enhancing the natural grain.
Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Test on a scrap piece or a less visible area first. As a Finishing Polish on Established Furniture Apply sparingly, with a soft lint-free cloth in a small circular motion. Light buff after 20-30 minutes (or when polish appears dull) with another clean lint-free cloth. Avoid a wax build up on your cloth by frequently turning the cloth to new/clean areas. Avoid scrunching of your buffing cloth. Where resistance to buffing increases, consider buffing in stages, ensuring the polish is sufficiently dried as you ‘buff’. *Previously varnished or sealed surfaces may require 24 hours full drying time before a final buff. This Carnauba wax will not harm the varnished or sealed surfaces. For New or Restored work Charge (or load) fine grade (0000) steel wool to work an initial coat, sparingly into and with the grain. Allow 15-20 mins to dry Buff until you feel zero resistance in the cloth. Keep turning the cloth (to clean areas) during buffing. This also reduced friction through heat. IF applying 2nd or subsequent coats, use a clean lint-free cloth or non-abrasive pad as desired, allowing each coat to dry between buffing. A Final firm buff (buff till you puff) 8 hours after light buffing, or until there is zero resistance in the buffing cloth and the desired sheen is accomplished. If you can leave finger prints on the finished surface – it’s not yet cured.
Previously finished furniture Touch dry 20-30 minutes – Allow 24 hours before typical use. New work Touch dry 15-20 mins after final coat is firmly buffed. Allow overnight (12-24hrs) curing before high-traffic use (for the avoidance of fingers prints etc.) Remember ‘If it’s worth waxing, it’s worth waiting’
Characteristics
Most durable and or the highest sheen in the Restorer range
Fit for
New Timber, restored furniture, or unsealed surfaces
Maintenance of finished timber and furniture
Optional use
Turnings, carvings, and ornamental
Leather
Typical Uses
Suitable for all timbers.
For previously treated surfaces. Can be applied over oiled or waxed surfaces.
Also suitable for new work, and restored and turned work where a high lustre durable wax polish finish is desired. Can also be used over painted (dry) surfaces.
Essential Ingredients
Carnauba wax, Australian Beeswax, Refined Petroleum Wax, Natural (gum)Turpentine, and Low Odour Mineral Spirits.
Sheen Level (1-5) Durability Level (1-5)
4 4
Pure Tung OIl
Or skip to our Featured Tung Oil Article here
Tung Oil has been a preferred natural drying oil for timber and other surfaces, for ages, (eons) providing a uniquely smooth finish, and is promoted for its resistance to water. It’s natural, versatile, environmentally friendly, doesn’t mould or darken as some oils can, does not turn rancid, and adds a depth of grain into wood. Our Tung Oil is pure, unspoilt, and untreated with any thinner, additives, or solvents, leaving you the full range of application options! Tung Oil is a natural Drying Oil which means that it dries to form a barrier against moisture. Tung oil dries by exposure to the air, unlike polishes that usually dry by way of evaporation of the solvents. This drying process, also called Polymerising, is a process of cross linking or combining to form a bond between the tiny molecules. In terms of drying oils, Tung Oil is believed to be the most impervious drying oils, to water, once cured. Tung Oil is generally considered food safe, when cured.
Or refer to our Article using the link above... Summary of Application & Use Tung Oil is a user friendly and easily applied product. Apply a coat of oil with a pad, brush or your fingers. Allow the oil to absorb for approximately 60 minutes or until dry patches appear. Wipe over the entire surface, removing any excess, then allow to dry. Diluted first and second coats can be re coated within a few hours, else allow 24hrs dry time between coats. When you’ve achieved your desired level of finish (possibly 3-5 coats) stand back and admire your work! OPTIONAL READING Application in more detail Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Test on a scrap piece or a less visible area first. Depending upon the surface being treated, often best applied in thin coats. A diluted 1st and 2nd coat can be applied, for example, at a ratio of 1:1 with a solvent. Gum Turpentine, Citrus Terpene and D‐Limonene rank high among the solvents suggested. Water is not an appropriate solvent in this instance, and it will not mix with Tung Oil. Tung Oil together with lower grit surface preparations can be thinned to the desired viscosity to increase absorption (new work) and dry time. But at some stage during coating, a 240+ grit would lend itself to a smoother ultimate finish. ‘Often’ but not always – There are mixed opinions about diluting Tung Oil with some solvents when applying the oil to kitchen utensils or children’s toys. Some believe that once the solvent has dried (evaporates) then it is no longer present occurs, then then it is never food safe. This remains your personal choice as it is also better absorption. (Confused yet? …. If you are unsure, test on a scrap piece, or inconspicuous area first.) Apply Tung Oil with brush or clean lint‐free cloth. A pad, or even your hand would not absorb as much as some cotton cloths will. To apply a little more pressure, a white non‐abrasive pad will help you to massage the oil into the surface. For general (quicker) interior/exterior finishes Apply 1st coat liberally, wipe off any excess or pooling that is not absorbed within 1‐2 hours. Leave until touch dry before applying a second coat. Coats may vary from 2, to many for some furniture finishes, increasing viscosity (Less solvent) as coats are applied to the desired finish. It is not necessary to sand between coats, unless you started with just 120 grit and are ultimately seeking a smoother finish. For fine work: (methods are non‐exhaustive) Apply thin, meaning to wipe on very thin, and not necessarily thinned ‘with thinner or solvent’ ‐ using many sparingly applied coats until you achieve your desired result. Your best chance at achieving any natural satin sheen will be achieved using this method. Wipe on using a pre‐charged (with Tung oi) cloth or very slightly damp, lint free cloth or non‐abrasive pad. Optional Finish (1) Finish with 1,000 grit light buff 72+ hours after final coat for a really smooth surface. Optional (2) Introduction to Burnishing Burnishing Tung oil should be applied in thin layers, and where surface sanding preparation of 600grit or more was used, then the application can be as simple as a ‘wipe-on, wipe straight off’ process. Some like to light sand between coats just to de-nib, another option is to 'wet sand' the finishing coat - wet sanding is done with fine grit paper whilst the oil is still wet. This burnishing technique may accelerate the dry time of Tung Oil, by way of heat friction and thinning. Burnishing can also result in a higher sheen to Tung Oil, without any additives. Burnishing the finish - steps One method to achieve a burnished finish (non-exhaustive) Apply your final coat of Tung Oil, thinned to 50/50 with solvent Allow the oil to penetrate/rest for 15-30 mins The Oil should still display a wet shine Start 'wet sanding' with 400grit - only 6 or so passes (1 pass = back & forth) are required, sanding with the grain of course. This action will cause the sanding dust and oil to form something of a slurry. It also kicks off the polymerising process. Move up the grits 400 to 600, 800,1000, 1,200 and up to 2,000 or more if you're on a roll! The slurry will slowly be removed, leaving if anything, only the finest of paste and an exceptionally smooth finish. Finally, wipe the surface (be firm) with a clean lint cotton cloth, turning the cloth to clean areas as required. You are effectively 'buffing' the surface clean. Step back - you're finished. When completely cured, your finish will be as resistant to heat and hot or cold fluids as any natural oil can be. Waxing remains an option, but is by no means required.
Touch dry between 1st and 2nd coats – 1‐3 hours Warmth, low humidity and UV light, NOT heat, will aid the drying process. 24hrs between further coats 72‐96hrs before light 1,000 grit buff (optional) – which will leave a matt and incredibly smooth to the touch, finish. Do not use when aiming for some sheen/gloss. Full curing time ‐ 2 weeks to a month (Go for a month, particularly if applying a top finish after Oiling – e.g., furniture wax)
Characteristics
Simply the best. (Drying Oil) 100% Pure. Smooth, Matt finish. Does not darken, mould, or discolour
Fit for
New Timber, restored furniture, or unsealed surfaces
Interior timber flooring
Kitchen boards, utensils, and toys (‘food safe’)
Turnings, carvings, ornamental, and furniture
Optional use
Workshop worksurfaces
Stone, and slate
Typical Uses
Suitable for all timbers, furniture, flooring, toys, chopping boards and alike, utensils, weathered wood, concrete, countertops, stone, and many porous surfaces.
Essential Ingredients
100% Pure Tung Oil
Sheen Level (1-5) Durability Level (1-5)
1 5
Carnauba Crystal Wax
Information and tips on use
Like all our finishes, Crystal Carnauba Wax Polish imparts an alluring fragrance, including pine & cedarwoods, with a squeeze of fresh oranges. An incredibly tactile polish for the wood turner, furniture finisher, and tradesperson – Our Crystal Carnauba finish is easy and quick to apply, taking only minutes to buff to a durable and water repelling finish. It's ‘Wax-to-the-MAX’ We have pushed the boundaries of ‘wax % content’ with this polish, particularly of course, the Carnauba. At almost 60% Carnauba content, this hard wax produces a glass-like sheen with unparalleled durability. Like the rest of the Restorers range, the steel wool and cotton cloth regime work perfectly. Lathe enthusiasts can take advantage of the machine buffed finish that Crystal delivers, direct to a raw sanded base, oiled, sealed, or friction treated piece, for incredible results. A single coat will revive surfaces. Or apply a couple of coats to new work for a sleek high-lustre glass-like transparent finish.
Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Test on a scrap piece or a less visible area first. As a Finishing Polish on Established Furniture Apply sparingly, with a soft lint-free cloth in a small circular motion. Light buff after 20-30 minutes (or when polish appears dull) with another clean lint-free cloth. Avoid a wax build up on your cloth by frequently turning the cloth to new/clean areas. Avoid scrunching of your buffing cloth. Where resistance to buffing increases, consider buffing in stages, ensuring the polish is sufficiently dried as you ‘buff’. *Previously varnished or sealed surfaces may require 24 hours full drying time before a final buff. This Carnauba wax will not harm the varnished or sealed surfaces. For New or Restored work Charge (or load) fine grade (0000) steel wool to work an initial coat, sparingly into and with the grain. Allow 15-20 mins to dry Buff until you feel zero resistance in the cloth. Keep turning the cloth (to clean areas) during buffing. This also reduced friction through heat. IF applying 2nd or subsequent coats, use a clean lint-free cloth or non-abrasive pad as desired, allowing each coat to dry between buffing. A Final firm buff (buff till you puff) 8 hours after light buffing, or until there is zero resistance in the buffing cloth and the desired sheen is accomplished. If you can leave finger prints on the finished surface – it’s not yet cured.
Previously finished furniture Touch dry 20-30 minutes – Allow 24 hours before typical use. New work Touch dry 15-20 mins after final coat is firmly buffed. Allow overnight (12-24hrs) curing before high-traffic use (for the avoidance of fingers prints etc.) Remember ‘If it’s worth waxing, it’s worth waiting’
Characteristics
Superior in both durability and glass-like sheen, with only a thin coat applied
Fit for
New Timber, restored furniture, or unsealed surfaces
Maintenance of finished timber and furniture
Turnings, carvings, and ornamental
Optional use
Leather
Typical Uses
Suitable for all timbers.
For new timber and previously treated surfaces, restored and turned work where a very high (Glass-like) lustre and durable wax polish finish is desired.
Essential Ingredients
Carnauba wax, Australian Beeswax, Refined Petroleum Wax, Natural (gum)Turpentine, and Low Odour Mineral Spirits.
Sheen Level (1-5) Durability Level (1-5)
5 5
Metal & Workshop Wax Paste
Information and tips on use
Metal & Workshop Wax Paste is a high‐performance durable wax paste composition. Permeated with a wild woody aroma, this wax paste is non‐abrasive, contains a 4‐wax blend, a commercial hydrotreated low‐odour cleansing solvent, and contains no silicone. High in refined petroleum waxes (Microcrystalline and Paraffin) and with the durability of Carnauba and Beeswax, is primarily designed to form an air‐tight seal against on steel surfaces in order to lock out tarnishing & rust and markedly increase both protection and performance. Microcrystalline is renowned for its flexibility and bonding characteristics for metal, and also features in many timber wax formulations, so this wax is an effective all-round workshop maintenance solution. This combination of waxes will protect the surface against oxidisation and increase machine performance through reduced friction.
Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Carefully assess your work surface before you begin and ensure your applicator is suitable for the surface, you’re applying wax paste to. (e.g., not using an applicator that itself, would scratch or etch the surface undesirably) Using a cotton cloth or fine steel wool, load your applicator with a liberal amount of Metal Wax Paste. Work the paste across the surface, covering the entire area. Massaging the wax paste into the surface with fine steel wool may assist in removing tarnishing or some surface rust. For timber surfaces, apply the wax paste to the surface, working with the grain where possible. When the wax paste is dry, BUFF the surface with a clean cotton cloth. Turning the buffing cloth regularly, you should produce a silk sheen finish. To ensure all residual wax paste is removed after drying time, your buffing cloth should glide without resistance, across any steel/metal surface.
20‐30 minutes
Characteristics
Fit for workbenches but loves metal. Silk sheen, low friction, protects against rust, and high in Microcrystalline
Fit for
Metal or cast iron surfaces (machine surfaces)
Workshop bench surfaces & cabinetry
Optional use
New Timber, restored furniture, or unsealed surfaces
Leather
Typical Uses
Ideal for all machine surfaces (saw tables, jointers, drill presses, planers, bandsaws, blades, any cast steel surface and all timber worksurfaces).
A preventative and maintenance solution for cast iron, steel, and timber surfaces.
Alternatively, Metal Wax Paste can be applied over an existing rust patina to art & ornamental pieces to protect or suspend the finish.
Essential Ingredients
Microcrystalline wax, carnauba wax, paraffin wax, beeswax, natural (gum) turpentine, and low odour spirits.
Sheen Level (1-5) Durability Level (1-5)
3 3/4
Board Butter ('Full cream')
Information and tips on use
Our Full Cream Board Butter is designed to prolong the life of your boards, blocks, wood toys, and kitchenware by forming a superior surface barrier between foods & fluids, and the woods grain. Board ‘butter’ is so named for its butter-like creamy consistency. (oh, and doesn't actually contain 'cream') This formulation of Beeswax, Mineral and Tung Oil, results in a smoother, longer lasting buttery complexion, where straight mineral oil may dry unevenly in the short term, leaving a comparatively patchy and ashen look. Considered food safe when dry.
Avoid the use of steel wool as it can leave dark stains on your kitchenware. For new Boards and Utensils: (New untreated wood) Apply 2-3 coats, starting with a more generous coat, buffing between coats. Use your fingers, a cloth or non-abrasive pad in a circular fashion to rub the butter into the surface. 1st Coat - Wipe off any excess after 15 minutes. (See drying times) Allow 1-2 hours before applying subsequent coats (touch dry), buffing between coats. For Maintenance (previously treated wood) Scoop a small amount of Board Butter onto a clean dry lint free cloth or non-abrasive pad, or directly onto the surface you’re treating, if it’s flat. Use your fingers, a cloth or non-abrasive pad in a circular fashion to rub the butter into the surface. Wipe off any excess after 15 minutes. (See drying times) A little goes a long way, and one or two generous coats are better than a flooding the surface in a single pass.
1st coat - Touch dry from 15 minutes depending upon how porous your wood surface is. Application to new or restored/sanded wood will become touch dry significantly faster than a previously treated surface, for the first coat. Allow 1-2 hours before applying subsequent coats (touch dry), buffing between coats. 1 or 2 coats - Allow 24 hours after final coat, before use. 3 or 4 coats - Allow up to 48 hours after final coat, before use.
Characteristics
Periodic maintenance for cutting/serving boards and utensils. Contains: Tung Oil, Mineral Oil, and Beeswax
Fit for
Kitchen boards, top, utensils, and toys (‘food safe’)
Optional use
-
Typical Uses
Chopping, Cutting and Carving Boards, Benches, Blocks, Wood Toys, and Kitchenware. (Utensils, bowls etc.).
Any timber that requires a 'food safe' nourishing and protective finish (not to mention the honey aroma!)
Considered food safe when dry.
Essential Ingredients
Australian Beeswax, Tung Oil, and Food Safe Mineral Oil.
Sheen Level (1-5) Durability Level (1-5)
1/2 N/A
Furniture Makers Wax & Tung OIl
Information and tips on use
This is a versatile, tactile, and aromatic wax polish for the Craftsman & Artisan, complimented with the universally accepted quality of PURE TUNG OIL. Our Furniture Makers Wax & Oil Polish is an easily applied Base wax & oil treatment, that feeds and nourishes new and restored timber. Further, it ‘charges the grain’, filling and feeding it, which means this one product from base to build to final buff! Its blend of waxes, Tung Oil, and natural & low odour solvents, provide for a fast and durable polish, each coat producing & improving on its smooth satin lustre.
Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Test on a scrap piece or a less visible area first. For Restoring or finishing a piece without a polyurethane or pre‐existing high sheen varnish. ‘Charge’ your fine (0000) steel wool, applying sparingly in the direction of the grain. If working with rounds, corners or cervices, work the wax in to the grain well using the steel wool, and where possible finish in the direction of the grain. Refreshing a finished piece (Varnished or similar) Where the surface is varnished or similar, and for the avoidance of micro‐keying (scratches) into the surface, use a soft cotton cloth in place of steel wool. Apply the wax in a small circular motion covering the entire area. Working with the grain is of less importance, as you’re polishing the coat on top, not the grain below.
Base Coat: Allow to dry for 30 minutes but no more than 2 hours. Second Coat: Touch‐dry within 1 hour (within 14‐25 Celsius) Allow 4 hours after final coat, before light use (moving). Curing or prior to applying Traditional Beeswax or any further wax may take 1‐2 days depending upon ambient conditions.
Characteristics
‘Oil in, Wax on’ – nourishing wax with drying oil properties. No black spot
Fit for
New Timber, restored furniture, or unsealed surfaces
Optional use
Maintenance of finished timber and furniture
Interior timber flooring
Leather
Typical Uses
New and Restored timber where surface or grain is unsealed or porous.
For previously treated surfaces, also consider our Restorers Traditional Beeswax, or any of our Restorers Premium Wax Furniture Polishes.
Essential Ingredients
Australian Beeswax, Carnauba Wax, Refined Petroleum Wax, Tung Oil, Gum (natural) Turpentine, Low odour Mineral Spirits.
Sheen Level (1-5) Durability Level (1-5)
2 4
Restorers Traditional Beeswax & Oil
Information and tips on use
For the bastions of tradition, and those who simply appreciate the look and feel that beeswax brings out in timber. This product is a ‘Build & Buff’ product that is suitable as a Finish. However, our oil-free Traditional Beeswax will further soften the feel, and can add slightly more lustre, if desired. Traditional Beeswax Oil Polish is primarily designed as a base coat that feeds and oils new and restored timber, using only age-old ingredients. A balanced wax, to provide a rich silk lustre (low to mid-sheen) that preserves, protects, and enhances grain, with natural fluid repelling properties. This traditional beeswax formulation is 100% natural, biodegradable, and an environmentally friendly option.
Summary of Application & Use Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Apply a Base coat sparingly, with fine (000 or 0000) steel wool, working the product into the grain. Buff after 20‐30 minutes with a cotton or cotton polishing cloth. IF applying a second coat of this product, wait at least 30 mins, but within 2 hours of the Base coat. Apply the second coat with a clean cotton cloth in the direction of the grain. Buff second coat after 30 minutes, turning the cloth frequently to maintain a clean, and cool surface. Application in detail Ensure the work area is well ventilated. Test on a scrap piece or a less visible area first. For Restoring or finishing a piece without a polyurethane or pre‐existing high sheen varnish. ‘Charge’ your fine (0000) steel wool, applying sparingly in the direction of the grain. If working with rounds, corners or cervices, work the wax in to the grain well using the steel wool, and where possible finish in the direction of the grain. Refreshing a finished piece (Varnished or similar) Where the surface is varnished or similar, and for the avoidance of micro‐keying (scratches) into the surface, use a soft cotton cloth in place of steel wool. Apply the wax in a small circular motion covering the entire area. Working with the grain is of less importance, as you’re polishing the coat on top, not the grain below.
Base Coat: Allow to dry for 30 minutes but no more than 2 hours. Second Coat: Touch‐dry within 1 hour (within 14‐25 Celsius) Allow 4 hours after final coat, before light use (moving). Curing or prior to applying Traditional Beeswax or any further wax may take 1‐2 days depending upon ambient conditions.
Characteristics
Oil in, Wax on’ – Traditional Beeswax with Linseed Oil, satin sheen.
Fit for
New Timber, restored furniture, or unsealed surfaces
Optional use
Maintenance of finished timber and furniture
Interior timber flooring
Leather
Typical Uses
New and Restored timber where surface or grain is unsealed or porous.
For previously treated surfaces, also consider our Restorers Traditional Beeswax, or any of our Restorers Premium Wax Furniture Polishes.
Essential Ingredients
Australian Beeswax, natural (gum) Turpentine, and natural (raw) Linseed Oil.
Sheen Level (1-5) Durability Level (1-5)
2 3.5
Filthy Black Antique Wax
Information and tips on use
Antiquing, ageing, rustic charm, farmhouse style, cottage finish or rural architecture. There are many descriptions and many ways to apply black wax to timber or a piece of furniture. There really isn’t a right or wrong, but rather a desired outcome. We have designed our Antiquing wax with Antiquing in mind, which is to say ‘a look representing timber that has aged’ Filthy Black can be just that! This wax has an oil base making it easy to apply and move around your work for extended time. The mix has intentional opacity so that age is added as black to fill the grain, voids or cracks, and the mix of oils & wax will darken (age) the surface of the work. (Rather than ‘painting the grain’) Similarly, where applying Filthy Black to chalk or a porous painted surface, the black will fill voids and cracks but also add age & depth to cervices of raised profiles or the nooks and crannies of intricate carvings.
Ensure painted surfaces are dry before applying wax. Contains Gum Turpentine which can reduce painted surface if paint is not cured. (Dried properly) Apply liberally with a brush for typical cover, or a cloth for a very subtle effect. It is not necessary to prime the work with an oil, wax, or turpentine first, but these are options. Test your plan by applying to a discrete area or test piece first. Brush in a circular or criss-cross action to fill the grain. Cover the desired area and wipe of any excess. (Unless you’re building the wax and dark effect into cervices) Remember, you have working time in which to move the wax around the surface. Recoat as required to achieve bulk, depth, colour or desired ageing. Buff as required when dry, or lesser so if a lower sheen is desired. Effect wax can be further enhanced with a Beeswax or Carnauba wax finishing coat to add extra protection and shine.
Touch dry from 1-12 hours dependent upon the surface and volume of wax. Application to new or restored timber will be significantly faster than a painted surface. Full curing may require 48 hours to 2 weeks, again depending on surface and volume of wax effect applied.
Characteristics
Effect wax for corners, crevices, and mouldings. Often used for upcycled furniture, low sheen
Fit for
Chalk or Lime paint finishes
Upcycled projects
New Timber, restored furniture, or unsealed surfaces
Maintenance of finished timber and furniture
Optional use
-
Typical Uses
Any previously unsealed, new, or restored timbers, furniture and any porous surface requiring an aged or antique finish.
Antique wax is considered a 'Craft or Effect wax' and as such can be used as the artist sees fit.
Note: Antiquing Wax is not black paint - it is by design, transparent and is applied for effect. Black paint is black, and only black paint (or stain) will completely cover your grain/work piece.
Essential Ingredients
Beeswax, Carnauba wax, nut oil, low odour, and natural solvents, antiquing (filthy black) dye. (If you were here testing the formulations, you'd know why we called it that!)
Sheen Level (1-5) Durability Level (1-5)
1/2 3
Grain Popping White Wax
Information and tips on use
Custom/Faux finishes, limed Oak, rustic charm, farmhouse style, cottage finish or rural architecture. There are many descriptions and many ways to apply white wax to timber or a piece of furniture. There really isn’t a right or wrong, but rather a desired outcome. The mix has intentional opacity so that grain or the underlying paint is still visible, whilst the white subtly fills grain, voids or cracks and leave a light film over the surface. Similarly, where applying white to chalk or a porous painted surface, the white will fill voids and cracks but also add light to otherwise darker cervices, profiles, or the nooks and crannies of intricate carvings.
Ensure painted surfaces are dry before applying wax. Contains Gum Turpentine which can reduce painted surface if paint is not cured. (Dried properly) Apply liberally with a brush for typical cover, or a cloth for a very subtle effect. It is not necessary to prime the work with an oil, wax, or turpentine first, but these are options. Test your plan by applying to a discrete area or test piece first. Brush in a circular or criss-cross action to fill the grain. Cover the desired area and wipe of any excess. (Unless you’re building the wax and dark effect into cervices) Remember, you have working time in which to move the wax around the surface. Recoat as required to achieve bulk, depth, colour or desired ageing. Buff as required when dry, or lesser so if a lower sheen is desired. Effect wax can be further enhanced with a Beeswax or Carnauba wax finishing coat to add extra protection and shine.
Touch dry from 15 min. Application to new or restored timber will be significantly faster than a painted surface. Full curing may require 12 hours to 24 hours, again depending on surface and volume of wax effect applied.
Characteristics
As above (Black) – also used as a base. Can lighten new timber and pop the contrast of grain.
Fit for
Chalk or Lime paint finishes
Upcycled projects
New Timber, restored furniture, or unsealed surfaces
Maintenance of finished timber and furniture
Optional use
-
Typical Uses
Any previously unsealed, new, or restored timbers, furniture and any porous surface requiring a light or white granular finish. Not considered food safe.
Note: White Wax is not white paint - it is by design, transparent and is applied for effect. White paint is white, and only white paint will completely cover your grain/work piece.
Essential Ingredients
Australian Beeswax, Carnauba wax, refined petroleum wax, and low odour solvents.
Sheen Level (1-5) Durability Level (1-5)
1/2 3
Chopping Board Barrier Oil
Information and tips on use
Chopping Board Barrier Oil is a low viscosity oil with beeswax, designed to prolong the life of your boards, blocks, wood toys, and kitchenware by forming a superior barrier between foods & fluids, and the woods grain. This formulation results in a smoother, longer lasting buttery complexion, where straight mineral oil may dry unevenly in the short term, leaving a comparatively patchy and ashen look. BARRIER OIL V’s BOARD BUTTER: Whilst both our Barrier Oil and Board Butter contain Beeswax and Tung Oil for their repelling and protective properties, our Chopping Board Barrier Oil is designed to penetrate & condition the wood, further preventing drying and maintenance. Whilst Mineral Oil is not a ‘drying oil’, we add the right amount of Tung Oil as a true Drying Oil and as a further protective & preventative measure against fluid absorption - extending the life and reducing the maintenance of your kitchenware. They both provide excellent protection and conditioning for wood. They complement each other – e.g., Barrier Oil as a base, and Board Butter as a finish or for maintenance. Either are very easy to maintain. Neither should see the inside of a dishwasher!
Avoid the use of steel wool as it can leave dark stains on your kitchenware. Shake it to make it! Shake the bottle a few times before each use, to break the wax surface seal and mix the contents. For new Boards and Utensils: (New untreated wood) Apply 2-4 generous coats. Watch your work piece - If it’s absorbing the oil like it hasn’t had a drink in 100 years, then keep feeding it. Wipe off excess between coats, and buff after final coat. Final coat should be determined as ‘when the surface still feels wet over the majority of the area, 8 hours after coating’ Use your cloth or non-abrasive pad in a circular fashion to rub the oil into the surface. (See drying times) For Maintenance: (previously treated wood surfaces) Consider a light sand where excessive cutting marks, wear, raised or furring grain, or surface stain may be apparent. (The smoother the better in most cases) Pour a generous amount of Barrier Oil onto a clean dry lint free cloth or non-abrasive pad, or directly onto the surface you’re treating, if it’s flat. Use your cloth or non-abrasive pad in a circular fashion to rub the oil into the surface. Wipe off any pooling or excess after 15 minutes. (See Drying Time) A little goes a long way, and one or two generous coats are better than a flooding the surface in a single pass.
1st coat - Touch dry from 15 minutes to 2 hours depending upon how porous your wood surface is. Application to new or restored/sanded wood will become touch dry significantly faster than a previously treated surface, for the first coat. Allow 2-4 hours before applying subsequent coats (touch dry), removing excess between coats. 1 or 2 coats - Allow 24 hours after final coat, before use. 3 or 4 coats+ - Allow 48 hours after final coat, before use. Best results will be achieved by allowing a curing period of up to 2 weeks before use.
Characteristics
Rich honey aroma for new timber or periodic maintenance. Contains: Tung Oil, Mineral Oil, and Beeswax
Fit for
Kitchen boards, top, utensils, and toys (‘food safe’)
Optional use
-
Typical Uses
Chopping, Cutting and Carving Boards, Benches, Blocks, Wood Toys, and Kitchenware (Utensils, bowls etc.). Considered food safe when dry.
Essential Ingredients
Australian Beeswax, Tung Oil, and Food Safe Mineral Oil.
Sheen Level (1-5) Durability Level (1-5)
1/2 N/A
What we mean when we say 'Preparation'
For the timber surface to be receptive to the oil or wax, and to set a base for the best results, we talk about the preparation of the surface. Generally Oil needs to be able to evenly penetrate the surface, whilst a wax will dry on the surface. Old varnish or excessive ageing wax or grime build up pose barriers to oil and wax, and should be removed.
Similarly, once you've applied your finish, you don't want to be sanding or shaping the timber, so sanding to a desired finish should be completed as an important aspect of preparation.
Before you apply oil or wax to timber
Ensure the surface is clean, dry, and free of dust and oil. (other than dried furniture oil)
Remove existing excessive wax/polish build up with a mineral spirit or similar solvent.
Biodegradable options include Gum (natural) Turpentine and Limonene Terpene.
Soap and water is an adequate cleaner for the removal of dust & dirt, but not wax
Refer to the makers instructions before using any solvents.
Sand new or restored work to 240grit or greater.
It is not necessary to use sanding sealers, conditioners or any other surface treatment prior to oiling or waxing.
If sanding sealer or similar is used, follow the makers instructions, and be sure to apply these products prior to oiling or waxing. Wax is applied last, as a ‘top coat’ to any other product. (even if it has oil content)
Charging your Wax Applicator, Coats & Coverage
Wax
‘Charging’ your wax applicator
An applicator may be steel wool, a cotton or cotton mesh cloth, a pad, or similar. To charge (or load) your 0000‐steel wool or cotton cloth for applying wax, is to round the applicator with a head smaller than the opening of the tin (88mm) and work it in a circular motion into the wax tin ‘loading’ the wax against the head. If using cloth, try to avoid piling or wrinkling the head of the fabric.
Repeat the loading process twice the first time opening the tin, to ensure you have ‘skinned’ the surface wax and evenly loaded the applicator. Take care not to load it excessively, such that wax builds up around the sides of the head.
Coats & Coverage
One coat will usually be sufficient. A 150ml Tin will cover approximately 12-14sqm
Max‐Wax! The Industree Bar Waxes have a far higher wax content compared to crème or paste polishes. As such they are ‘hard wax’ and that should be applied sparingly, or worked well across and into the surface, rather than high onto the surface.
For previously prepared, sealed surfaces, or closed grain, one coat will usually be enough to produce sufficient protection and a rich deep shine.
Where two or more coats are required
The best results are achieved by applying the scientific combination of ‘wax & patience’ A couple of thin coats will yield a far better result than one thick coat!
If your piece requires two or more coats, allow the first coat time to properly dry. (overnight unless specific product details suggest otherwise) Rubbing steel wool into a soft wax will remove as much as it applies. Basically, replacing the previously buffed surface with a dull one. So, for second or any subsequent coats, use a clean applicator surface, as the previous applicator surface will have dried and will not apply the new wax well.
What do we mean by 'Buffing'
Buffing
Buffing is to remove the dry film left by the dissolving solvent and raising the shine naturally produced by the combination of waxes.
At the time of buffing, the wax is only just drying so it is important not to apply too much pressure creating friction and heat, and removing the wax.
Buffing Essentials
Use a cotton polishing cloth (The inexpensive car polishing netted cloth is ideal), shaping the cloth into a rounded and if possible, wrinkle‐free head that you can hold comfortably in one hand.
If you’ve buffed before ‐ Charge your cloth and Buff the wax to a beautiful smooth deep sheen.
More about buffing (for buffs)
A scrunched up hard cotton cloth rubbed aggressively against the wax, is likely to remove the new wax or leave streak marks. If these start to appear. Stop, you’re being too aggressive. Give the wax 5 minutes to settle, then gently buff the streaks out.
Buff the wax in a circular motion covering the entire a small section at a time, finish in the direction of the grain whenever possible. Buff until there is no resistance in the head of the cloth against the surface. Turning the cloth regularly whilst buffing, will ensure the heat caused by friction is kept to a minimum and wax doesn’t unnecessarily clog the head of your cloth. (You know what they say about keeping a cool head)
Buffing is not to remove the wax. Wax should not build up on the buffing cloth.
Note – If wax appears to be clogging the holes in your netted cotton cloth or you can see a tanned wax layer building on your cloth, consider one of two things:
-
The wax has not sufficiently dried. Leave the wax to dry for another 10‐15 minutes and then return to complete the buffing process; or
-
Too much wax was applied – so as above.
Safety, Maintenance & Care
Safety
Always test a product in discrete area or on test piece first.
The use of gloves is recommended for the application of all finishes.
Always work in a well ventilated area.
There are no known irritants in the general use of any The Industree Bar products.
Tung oil is pressed from the NUT of the Tung Tree – So consider your NUT allergies
Do not consume.
In case of emergency, seek immediate medical attention.
Dispose of applicators and buffing cloths carefully. Do not ‘scrunch up’ cloths, leave laid out to dry before disposal, or soak in soapy water to clean.
Maintenance & care
If surfaces becomes dull, wipe surface with mineral spirit or similar solvent/cleaner and re apply a single coat sparingly, with a clean cotton cloth. Buff with another clean cotton or cotton-mesh cloth, as suggested in the product ‘Application’.
Store at temperatures under 23 degrees Celsius.
Keep lid firmly on tin or bottle, when the product not in use.